Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Puff Pastry Dough

I jumped a few sections in my book of The Fundamental Techniques of Classic Pastry Arts since I had been focusing most of my energy on tarts (fresh fruit tarts and the classic French apple tart), and I decided to learned how to make puff pastry dough!

Deliciously addicting paillettes (cheese straws)
made from puff pastry dough
All I've heard about puff pastry dough is how daunting it is to make...involving hours upon hours of work for something you can just buy in your grocer's freezer section. Well let me tell you that making your own dough is completely worth it! At least try it once and see for yourself. After making this dough I don't think I can ever go back to pre-made puff pastry dough! And although this isn't something you can whip together at a moment's notice, the amount of time you work with the dough is minimal. Most of the time is spent letting it rest in the fridge so that the butter doesn't melt pre-oven (read my Classic French Apple Tart post to read about how the butter affects the dough).

You start out making a typical dough mixture (flour, butter, salt, and water) and then get a big hunk of butter which you pound out to be approximately the same dimensions as the dough. I started using a rolling pin to flatten out the butter, but it was so cold that the rolling pin wasn't doing too much damage...so I switched to a meat tenderizer! Of course I used the flat, hammer-like side of the mallet in order to not puncture the plastic wrap that was holding the butter, but this method proved much more effective than a rolling pin, especially when you want to keep the butter cold (which you do).

Now it's time to "package" the giant slab of butter inside the dough as if you were going to mail it away ("Oh, what's this? A giant slab of butter from my dear friend Amanda? How kind of her!" -- check your mailboxes for this). The dough is rolled out such that there's a nice thick square the size of the slab o' butter, but there are also four flaps on each side of the square. The butter is placed in the center of the dough and the four flaps fold over the butter to prevent any butter from escaping when this "package" is rolled flat.

This square is then rolled into a long flat rectangle 22 inches long, tri-folded to make a square, re-rolled to 22 inches long, tri-folded again, wrapped in plastic wrap, and refrigerated for an hour. This process is done a total of 3 times. Each time the dough is rolled out and re-folded is called a turn. You want a total of 6 turns to make the end product extra flaky.


You can't really see it in the picture, but there are lots of butter layers within the dough. Actually I calculated it to be a whopping 729 layers (!!!) of buttery goodness just waiting to melt and make the most delicious pastries :)


A slice of the final (dough) product

Overall, not too difficult. I had a few moments rolling out my dough where the outside layer seemed to be a little too thin so the butter tried to escape, but otherwise it wasn't bad. I definitely recommend taking on the puff pastry dough...or convincing a friend or family member to do it at least so you can enjoy the tasty results!

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Pate Feuilletee (Puff Pastry Dough) Recipe:
From The Fundamental Techniques of Classic Pastry Arts by The French Culinary Institute

For the Dough:
125 g cake flour
125 g bread flour (or all-purpose flour)
1 tsp. salt
35 g unsalted butter, softened


For the barrage (slab o' butter):
250 g unsalted butter, cold

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Classic French Apple Tart

I have never had an apple tart before this; however, I'm big on apple pies (especially around the holidays). If good enough, this tart may appear at this year's Thanksgiving instead of it's pie relative.

Sacrificial apples (and a hiding lemon)

You may ask yourself, "What is the difference between a tart and a pie?"

Well, I'm here to tell you that there really isn't much of a difference. Tarts only have a bottom crust, whereas pies can have a bottom crust, top crust, or both, otherwise they're pretty much the same.

This time I finally read through the sections of The Fundamental Techniques of Classic Pastry Arts that I skipped over prior to my last Fresh Fruit Tart. And it made me realize how I really need to learn more about the ingredients and the process before just diving into the recipes. My new findings helped me understand the process in making a delicious dough, and I believe that I figured out what I did wrong with my shortbread dough.

Here's my understanding of it....
Pastry dough is all about the butter. The entire process of making tart dough is to create a delicious flaky crust, which can only be done by keeping the butter cold.

The butter is first mixed with the sugar until it creates a granular paste:

Maybe it doesn't look super granular here, but I swear it is!

This step allows the sugar crystals to cut the butter into tiny pieces, aerating the mixture. The last ingredient to be mixed in is the flour. A tough tart shell can easily be prevented by not overworking the dough. The more you mix the dough while it has flour, the more the gluten in the flour reacts, making the final product less tasty (you want more gluten to react in breads to help out the yeast, but not in tart dough).

With the aerated butter mixed in with the flour, your dough should now have tiny pockets of butter, which when baked will create your flaky crust when each of the butter pockets evaporate.

Ok, that's the lesson for the day.....on to the apple tart!

The dough....
This time I decided to try a new dough so I made the Pâte Sucrée (sweet tart dough). I mixed together my ingredients as discussed above, rolled out my beautiful tart dough, gently placed it in my tart pan and cut it to fit by rolling over the edges with a rolling pin. Then I gently pushed the tart shell down to make sure it was even.

Gorgeous dough lining the tart shell

The apple filling...
This tart really tested out my knife skills with a covering of apples sliced  3 mm thin and an interior layer of apples diced into tiny 6 mm cubes. I cooked the apple cubes on the stove, adding the seeds of a vanilla bean, and cooking it until the apples became translucent but still had a little crunch to them.

Adding vanilla bean seeds to my apple cubes

(TIP: If planning on baking a significant amount, order some vanilla beans in a larger quantity online -- I ordered some from Amazon -- it's a much better deal than any local grocery store)

Once the apple cubes were done cooking and then cooled, I gently spread them inside the unbaked shell. Unfortunately I completely underestimated the amount of cubes produced with 3 apples, so this layer ended up a little skimpy.

Spreading out my first layer of apple
The next layer of apples were first peeled, cored, rubbed with a lemon, and sliced lengthwise just like you would eat an apple if you were going to cut it up. The only real difference is that instead of slicing it into quarters or eighths you cut it into 3 mm thick slices (although maybe you cut it into 3 mm slices to eat it...).

Once there's a big stockpile of thinly sliced apples, begin laying them down touching the outer edge of the tart shell and overlapping. I found that the overlapping is wonderful because it can hide a lot of mistakes on your apple slices (e.g. small pieces, pieces that may not be the exact same thickness throughout, etc.).

Overlapping my apple slices
Continue adding circles of overlapping apple slices until the first layer of apple cubes are completely covered. The book only showed two circles of apple slices; however, I have discovered that my tart pan is a touch too big (also explains my insufficient amount of apples) -- it's 13 inches instead of the recommended 9 inch pan (to be honest, I thought there was just a standard tart pan size) -- so I had three circles of apple slices.

I threw the tart in the oven for an hour (the entire recommended amount of time) while surrounding the edges of the tart shell with aluminum foil for all but maybe 10 minutes of the baking time to prevent them from burning. I topped it off with an apricot glaze, took a bunch of pictures, and ate about half of it in one sitting with David's help! Needless to say, it was delicious...and not just any kind of delicious, French delicious. You know, where you think it's going to be super sweet because in America most desserts are (not that I'm always against that), but in reality it's just sweet enough to leave you wanting more.

My first apple tart, but not my last!

Sad filling :(
Analysis of Product:
  • Delicious although I wish there were more substance to it. I blame that on not having enough apples for the size of the tart (see image to the right). I even had to roll the tart dough down the edges before baking because it looked silly having an extra half-an-inch or so of crust above the filling!

  • The tart dough was definitely a success! The sweet tart dough was much less heavy compared to the shortbread dough I made for the Fresh Fruit Tart. The shortbread dough was much more like a big cookie, whereas the sweet tart dough was more like a typical crust. The dough also rolled out well so I was able to get a nice thin, even layer throughout the entire tart. It was also cooked all the way through without burning the crust thanks to the aluminum foil protecting the edges!

  • My slicing and dicing skills have definitely improved since my first attempt at dissecting an apple (it took me an hour to cut up one apple into approximately 5mm sticks and cubes)! Most of my apple cubes and slices looked pretty accurate, but I think that the baking of the tart is the true test. Logically, it seems like when the apples were cut a little too thin, they darkened faster than the other, slightly thicker pieces...what a horrible give away to my mistakes!